1.Nhọrọ nkeihe na-acha ọcha
✏ Nhọrọ nke ihe ndị na-acha ọcha ga-agbasorịrị ụkpụrụ nke ụkpụrụ ịdị ọcha ịchọ mma nke mba, soro ụkpụrụ nchekwa na ịdị irè, machibido iji ihe ndị a machibidoro iwu, ma zere iji ihe ndị dị ka mercury, lead, arsenic, na hydroquinone.
✏ N'ime nyocha na mmepe nke ihe ịchọ mma na-acha ọcha, ọ dị mkpa ịtụle ụzọ dị iche iche na-acha ọcha nke agba akpụkpọ ahụ, ihe dị iche iche na-emetụta, na usoro dị iche iche nke imepụta melanin.
✏ Iji otu ma ọ bụ karịa ihe na-acha ọcha nwere usoro ọrụ dị iche iche, jikọtara ya na ọtụtụ ụzọ ịcha ọcha, na-egosipụta mmetụta synergistic na nke ọma na-edozi nsogbu pigmenti akpụkpọ anụ nke ọtụtụ ihe kpatara.
✏ Lezienụ anya na ndakọrịta kemịkalụ nke ihe ndị na-acha ọcha ahọpụtara ma wuo usoro nhazi usoro ọcha dị mma, kwụsie ike ma dị irè.
Ihe atụ nke ihe na-acha ọcha nwere usoro ọcha dị iche iche
2. Mechanism nke UV agbachitere:
Were ụzarị ọkụ ultraviolet ma belata mmetụta ultraviolet radieshon na keratinocytes, dị ka methoxycinnamate ethyl hexyl ester, ethylhexyltriazinone, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoate hexyl ester, wdg.
✏ Tụgharịa ma gbasasịa ụzarị ultraviolet, belata mmetụta na-akpasu iwe nke ụzarị ultraviolet na epidermis, ma chebe akpụkpọ ahụ mmadụ, dị ka iji nnukwu efere nke dioxide, zinc oxide, wdg.
Mgbochi intracellular nke melanocytes:
✏ Na-egbochi ọrụ tyrosinase, ibelata njikọ nke melanin, ibelata oke melanin na akpụkpọ ahụ, na ime ka akpụkpọ ahụ dị ọcha, dị ka.arbutin,ketone raspberry, hexylresorcinol,phenetyl resorcinol, na glycyrrhizin.
✏ Mbelata ụzọ akara nke melanocytes gụnyere n'ịhazi okwu MITF na ibelata okwu tyrosinase, dị ka resveratrol, curcumin, hesperidin, paeonol, na erythritol.
✏ Mbelata melanin intermediates; Ịgbanwe njikọ nke melanin gaa na njikọ nke melanin agba aja aja, na-ekpochapụ oxygen free radicals, na ibelata njikọ melanin, dị ka cysteine, glutathione, ubiquinone, ascorbic acid, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid glucoside, ascorbic acid phosphate magnesium na ndị ọzọ VC mmepụta. yanavitamin E mmepụta
3.Extracellular mgbochi nke melanocytes
4.Mgbochi nke njem melanin
5.Anti glycation mmetụta
Nhọrọ Matrix
Ụdị usoro onunu ogwu bụ ụzọ iji nyere aka ịchacha ihe ndị na-arụ ọrụ na-arụ ọrụ nke ọma, ma bụrụ ihe dị mkpa na-ebu. Ụdị usoro onunu ogwu na-ekpebi matriks. Nhazi na matrix nwere mmetụta dị ukwuu na nkwụsi ike na ntinye transdermal nke ihe na-acha ọcha.
Na-agbakwunye kpuru ìsì na-agbakwunye ihe ndị na-acha ọcha na ngwaahịa, mgbe ị na-eleghara nchikota nke ihe na-acha ọcha na mmetụta nke usoro onunu ogwu na absorption transdermal ha, nwere ike ọ gaghị eduga na nchekwa na-eju afọ, nkwụsi ike, na nrụpụta ngwaahịa.
Ụdị usoro onunu ogwu nke ngwaahịa na-acha ọcha na-agụnye ude mmiri, ude, mmiri, gel, nkpuchi ihu, mmanụ nlekọta anụ ahụ, wdg.
✏ Ude ude: Sistemu ahụ n'onwe ya nwere mmanụ na emulsifier, enwere ike ịgbakwunye ihe ndị ọzọ na-akwalite ntinye. Usoro nwere nnukwu ndakọrịta. Enwere ike iji ụfọdụ ihe na-acha ọcha na-acha ọcha na obere solubility na mfe oxidation na discoloration na usoro site n'ịkwalite usoro. Mmetụta akpụkpọ ahụ bara ụba, nke nwere ike gbanwee nchikota mmanụ na emulsifier iji mepụta mmetụta anụ ahụ dị ọhụrụ ma ọ bụ nke siri ike, ma ọ bụ nwere ike ịgbakwunye ndị na-akwalite ntinye ntinye iji kwalite ntinye transdermal nke ihe na-acha ọcha.
Gel mmiri: n'ozuzu mmanụ na-enweghị mmanụ ma ọ bụ obere mmanụ, dabara adaba maka idobe akpụkpọ mmanu mmanu, ngwaahịa ọkọchị, mmiri etemeete na mkpa imewe ndị ọzọ. Ụdị usoro ọgwụgwọ a nwere ụfọdụ njedebe, na ihe ndị na-acha ọcha na-acha ọcha na obere solubility adịghị mma maka iji usoro nke ụdị usoro onunu ogwu. Mgbe ị na-emepụta ngwaahịa, ọ dị mkpa ịtụle ndakọrịta nke ihe ndị na-acha ọcha na ibe ha, na ihe ndị ọzọ.
✏ Nkpuchi ihu: Tinye ihe mkpuchi ihu ozugbo n'elu akpụkpọ ahụ iji mee ka cuticle ahụ dị nro, gbochie ikuku mmiri, ma mee ka ntinye na ntinye nke ihe ndị na-arụ ọrụ. Otú ọ dị, ihe mkpuchi ihu ihu nwere nnukwu kọntaktị na akpụkpọ ahụ, nke na-eme ka akpụkpọ ahụ ghara ịdị na-anabata ya ma nwee ihe dị elu chọrọ na ịdị nwayọọ nke ngwaahịa ahụ. Ya mere, ụfọdụ ihe na-acha ọcha na-adịghị mma na-adịghị mma adịghị mma ka agbakwunye ya na usoro nke nkpuchi ihu na-acha ọcha.
✏ Mmanụ na-ahụ maka akpụkpọ ahụ: tinye ihe na-eme ka mmanụ na-eme ka ọ bụrụ mmanụ na-ahụ maka anụ ahụ, ma ọ bụ jikọta ya na mmiri mmiri iji mepụta usoro abụọ nke isi ihe na-acha ọcha okpukpu abụọ.
Nhọrọ nke usoro emulsification
Emulsification usoro bụ ihe a na-ejikarị na nke a na-ejikarị eme ihe na ihe ịchọ mma, n'ihi na ọ nwere ike ịnapụta ụdị ọrụ na ihe niile. A na-etinye ihe ndị na-acha ọcha nwere ihe ndị dị ka hydrophilicity, oleophility, na mfe nghọta na oxidation na usoro emulsion site na nkà na ụzụ nhazi usoro, na-enye ohere buru ibu maka nrụpụta ngwaahịa ngwaahịa.
Usoro emulsification nke a na-ejikarị agụnye mmiri na mmanụ (0 / W), mmanụ n'ime mmiri (W / 0), na ọtụtụ emulsification usoro (W / 0 / W, O / W / 0).
Nhọrọ nke ihe enyemaka ndị ọzọ
Iji mee ka mmetụta na-acha ọcha nke ngwaahịa ahụ dịkwuo mma, a ga-ahọrọkwa ihe ndị ọzọ dị mkpa, dị ka mmanụ, moisturizers, ndị na-eme ka ahụ dị jụụ, synergists, wdg.
Oge nzipu: Jun-06-2024
